First Tragedy, then Farce

May holiday has arrived in Beijing, along with my girlfriend's buddy Tim Krieder, and millions of Chinese tourists up from the provinces.

A strange flooding and abandonment happens around the national holidays, when all the migrant laborers and provincial professionals leave the city, causing an ear-popping drop in human pressure in the everyday places. A day or two later, the public spaces in Beijing are packed with tourists, fifty or sixty thousand deep.

I'd left Ellen and Tim to tour the Forbidden City on their own, but I'd promised to meet them for lunch- I knew a place nearby that served whole grilled sparrows (or baby chicks?). I walked down to my local subway stop and found a complete riot. Everyone was on the move, hauling luggage on and off the trains, packing them full, fighting with security guards, etc.

I had to let the first train go, and as it went, I noticed a pair of old ladies, nicely dressed, with rollie bags, standing on the edge of the platform. I stood next to them. They were looking over the edge onto the tracks. In all the bustle, they'd dropped a small bag of apples onto the tracks. Surely not.

Indeed. The older of the two women grabbed the hand of the younger, and with her help, lowered herself onto the tracks to get the apples. After all, they probably cost almost as much as the subway ticket, and you wouldn't want 3 元 to go to waste, right?

I shouted "别的！" which is nonsense (~"Don't of the!"), but which was all I could muster at the moment. I followed it up with "No!". The security guard came running, but by the time he got there, she'd all ready gotten the apples together, and her friend and I dragged her back up onto the platform. I admit, I was a little rougher than necessary.

The security guard immediately began berating the women about the insane risk they just took. I couldn't follow the language, but then I kept hearing the term ”电“ - electricity. The women responded by voiciferously asking for directions. This was 东四十条 station, wasn't it? Which exit should they take? They wanted 东四十条 street. Why are you yelling at me? I just want to find the street. The train had just left- there wouldn't be another one for a while!

I looked back down onto the pit. Unlike Boston or New York, I there was no third rail. I cocked my head, and looked along the length of the tracks. There it was, under the lip of the platform. She'd been standing on the third rail when I grabbed her arm, using it as a step.

This is actually the second time I've dragged someone off subway tracks. The first time was very frightening- I wrote about my experience here.